It has been a huge weekmonth year here at Fingers HQ, and I’ll be honest: I’m exhausted. Hell, in the past three days alone, I published a big scoop here confirming that the Brown-Forman Corporation superimposed its white liquor baron founder’s face onto Black abolitionist and teetotaler Frederick Douglass’ body (???), andanother big scoop at VinePair exposing all the (literal and figurative) pages in Sapporo-Stone Brewing’s union-busting playbook in Richmond, where its workers are organizing with the Teamsters. It’s been a lot.
Thankfully, I’ve got a break coming up. A big one, actually, maybe the biggest of my adult life. Your fearless Fingers editor is headed out on his long-belated honeymoon next week, and I’ll be gone through early October. Like, no computer, no email, no anything, gone-gone. Destination: Germany! I hear the beer is deec, but I’ve actually never been, so I need help. Your help, Fingers Fam. Where (and what?) should I drink while I’m in Germany?
Germany is a big country, dipshit,you may be thinking to yourself. Which, first of all, there’s no need for that kind of language. Second of all, our itinerary is…
Munich
Berlin
Cologne
Boppard (Rhine Valley)
…then back to Munich to fly out. Obviously, we’re planning to attend Oktoberfest in Munich, and we’ve got tickets to a harvest festival in the Rhine Valley, where I look forward to appalling some lovely multigenerational German winemakers that everybody in the United States assumes Riesling can only be cloyingly sweet. My saintly and long-suffering wife gave me permission to put out word to you sickos that our itinerary is fairly wide open otherwise. I’m looking for bars, restaurants, beer gardens, et cetera—anywhere you’ve enjoyed drinking (or eating!) on your past Teutonic travels to any of the places above, basically.
If you tell me to go to Berghain, I will have you arrested. But other than that, I would very much appreciate your recommendations. Comments are open to all, let ‘em rip, bitte und danke.
Of course, given the whole “gone-gone” bit above, this means Fingers is going on honeymoon hiatus. Today is the final regular edition I’ll publish until early October, but I’ve got some special archival programming for paying Friends of Fingers that’ll roll out while I’m rolling around Germany on depressingly efficient high-speed rail.
P.S.—Don’t forget to grab your limited-edition “United States of Boilermakers” from Fingers x Pints and Panels! It’s original art from two independent drinks-media cReAtOrS (me and the extremely talented Em Sauter) that will look terrific hanging over your barcart. Or wherever, really. Get yours now!
It's nice to see more than just the city center of Munich, and some of my most memorable beers were on the outskirts of Munich. Tegernsee, Andechs, and Weihenstephan were ALL gorgeous and lovely. I think I would reccommend them in that order. The Wilder Hirsch is the watering hole of choice for studious brewers at Doemens (that is in Grafelfing) and it is a sweet, warm little "hunter's cabin" that has a beer garden out back that butts up against a stream. They made the best kasespaetzle I have ever had in my life. That and an Augustiner Helles and I'm in heaven.
Tegernsee is absolutely beautiful. Getting away from the city is what I found the most enjoyable; just good genuine Germans being German. Focus on biergartens rather than sitting inside places in the city. It is such a wonderful part of their lifestyle. Wurst is anything but the Wurst.
In Munich, the Augustiner Keller near the bahnhof is a must hit, one of my favorite places I’ve ever been. Augustiner Helles is perfection. Also, I know it’s a tourist trap, but the hofbrauhaus is kind of a bucket list experience and even if it’s packed (it always is) they’re very efficient and you can get in and out really quickly if you want. In addition, the english and chinese gardens are a really nice walk with great biergarten pit stops throughout.
I second all of this. Augustiner Keller is my favorite beer garden in Munich. Haufbrauhaus is a tourist trap but fun for a quick beer (don't eat there). Also, the Viktualienmarkt is great. It's a market near the Marienplatz that has arts and crafts, food, and beer.
If there's any way you get can get to Bamburg, maybe even for the day, it's one hundo percent worth the stop to get a rauchbier. It's f*ckin lovely. And I know it's touristy but regardless, getting a beer in Hofbrau just feels right. We did breakfast there - a weisswurst and a hefe - and it was beautiful. And maybe the morning won't be as busy during Otkoberfest. Have a blast!
I'll be in Munich next Saturday through Tuesday, and heading East to Pilsen & Prague. This will be our second trip to Oktoberfest. Last time it was impossible to get into a tent on Saturday so you may want to venture to the already mentioned Augustiner Keller near the fairgrounds if this happens to you. In Cologne literally anywhere is great, but I dug the vibe of Peters Brauhaus the most. It's a small beer hall with great food.
Seconded. There’s also a früh spot near the cathedral in cologne worth checking out. I lived in Düsseldorf for a bit (short train ride from cologne). I know your itinerary is packed, but if you make it there, head to die Altstadt and get some altbier at Uerige.
Stone has a taproom in Berlin. Worth a peep. Hahaha!
Happy honeymoon. As a beer guy, I’d have to say Belgium is where it’s at, but since that’s not on the itinerary, try to find the highest rated (by locals) eponymous brew of each region, like a Kolsch in Cologne, and so forth.
A Jever was 1 euro last time I was there. Cheaper than water!
Go everywhere in Berlin but especially make sure to swing by one of the Dönerkebab stands. Brewery-hopping around the many Kölsch breweries in Cologne is a blast. Also, I recommend checking out some of the small towns like Oberammergau while you’re in the Munich area. So many cool little brewpubs with fantastic food & beer.
Check out this American style brewery called Brewsli - Der Biermacher in Munich! It's fun to see their takes on IPAs and sours, I really enjoyed it last summer. And as others have said, Augustiner has some of the best beer in Munich and their kellers are less touristy and more comfortable than Hofbräuhaus. Viel Spaß!
It's nice to see more than just the city center of Munich, and some of my most memorable beers were on the outskirts of Munich. Tegernsee, Andechs, and Weihenstephan were ALL gorgeous and lovely. I think I would reccommend them in that order. The Wilder Hirsch is the watering hole of choice for studious brewers at Doemens (that is in Grafelfing) and it is a sweet, warm little "hunter's cabin" that has a beer garden out back that butts up against a stream. They made the best kasespaetzle I have ever had in my life. That and an Augustiner Helles and I'm in heaven.
Tegernsee is absolutely beautiful. Getting away from the city is what I found the most enjoyable; just good genuine Germans being German. Focus on biergartens rather than sitting inside places in the city. It is such a wonderful part of their lifestyle. Wurst is anything but the Wurst.
Well said.
I did English language program at Doemens and drank at Wilder Hirsch very often. Incredible spot on the creek.
In Munich, the Augustiner Keller near the bahnhof is a must hit, one of my favorite places I’ve ever been. Augustiner Helles is perfection. Also, I know it’s a tourist trap, but the hofbrauhaus is kind of a bucket list experience and even if it’s packed (it always is) they’re very efficient and you can get in and out really quickly if you want. In addition, the english and chinese gardens are a really nice walk with great biergarten pit stops throughout.
I second all of this. Augustiner Keller is my favorite beer garden in Munich. Haufbrauhaus is a tourist trap but fun for a quick beer (don't eat there). Also, the Viktualienmarkt is great. It's a market near the Marienplatz that has arts and crafts, food, and beer.
Augustiner is the best tent at Oktoberfest too. At least the best big one.
If there's any way you get can get to Bamburg, maybe even for the day, it's one hundo percent worth the stop to get a rauchbier. It's f*ckin lovely. And I know it's touristy but regardless, getting a beer in Hofbrau just feels right. We did breakfast there - a weisswurst and a hefe - and it was beautiful. And maybe the morning won't be as busy during Otkoberfest. Have a blast!
I'll be in Munich next Saturday through Tuesday, and heading East to Pilsen & Prague. This will be our second trip to Oktoberfest. Last time it was impossible to get into a tent on Saturday so you may want to venture to the already mentioned Augustiner Keller near the fairgrounds if this happens to you. In Cologne literally anywhere is great, but I dug the vibe of Peters Brauhaus the most. It's a small beer hall with great food.
Let me be the first of 14 people to recommend Gaffel for kolsch in Cologne.
Seconded. There’s also a früh spot near the cathedral in cologne worth checking out. I lived in Düsseldorf for a bit (short train ride from cologne). I know your itinerary is packed, but if you make it there, head to die Altstadt and get some altbier at Uerige.
Stone has a taproom in Berlin. Worth a peep. Hahaha!
Happy honeymoon. As a beer guy, I’d have to say Belgium is where it’s at, but since that’s not on the itinerary, try to find the highest rated (by locals) eponymous brew of each region, like a Kolsch in Cologne, and so forth.
A Jever was 1 euro last time I was there. Cheaper than water!
Prost!
Ha! I think they sold that to BrewDog (lol) no? https://www.stonebrewing.com/blog/venues/2019/farewell-stone-brewing-berlin
All the places this person writes about seem amazing - https://tempestinatankard.com
Enjoy honeymoon!
Go everywhere in Berlin but especially make sure to swing by one of the Dönerkebab stands. Brewery-hopping around the many Kölsch breweries in Cologne is a blast. Also, I recommend checking out some of the small towns like Oberammergau while you’re in the Munich area. So many cool little brewpubs with fantastic food & beer.
Check out this American style brewery called Brewsli - Der Biermacher in Munich! It's fun to see their takes on IPAs and sours, I really enjoyed it last summer. And as others have said, Augustiner has some of the best beer in Munich and their kellers are less touristy and more comfortable than Hofbräuhaus. Viel Spaß!
I took myself on a trip to Franken a couple years ago. It was the middle of January so it was FREEZING but I still had a great time. I compiled all of the beer spots I visited (plus ones that were recommended to me by beer industry friends) into this guide - https://www.thatch.co/guide/3rythof83vkp8/view?s=SlMer3mWLJXJq4KchmWkBfXAcPq1&s_f=e&s_t=c_l&s_b=y
Hope it helps!